Pour the starter/water slurry into the flour and give it a rough stir. I use a large spoon or a dough whisk for this. It does NOT have to be well incorporated at this point- just as long as there are no dry patches or water puddles- generally mixed.

15 TO 3O MINUTES LATER : Now is prime time for kneading. That’s because the process of gluten development is happening and will peak within the first few hours. After that, due to the microbes consuming the sugars (fermentation) the structures will begin to break down and gluten forming potential will ebb. So, with wet hands, reach in there and give the dough a deep massage. Work it for a minute or two, constantly re-wetting hands, until you feel like its thoroughly incorporated. When you’re satisfied, cover the bowl with a cloth and let it rest. Return in an hour.

1 HOUR LATER, PROOFING & STRETCH-AND-FOLDS : It’s downhill from here. Just perform a stretch-and-fold every hour, roughly, for the next few hours. This is a no stress situation… if you forget one, loose count, do extra, it’s fine. Three to five stretch-and-folds total will be sufficient. How to do a stretch-and-fold: pull one side of the dough up, lay it over the top of the dough, spin the bowl a quarter and do the other side, spin and do it again, and once more, so that you pulled from all “four sides,” respectively. Or five. Again. It’s fine. So this proofing step can be expected to span over the next 3 or 5 hours. As you proceed through these steps, notice the difference in the dough each time you return. Try the windowpane test each time to monitor progress.

TURN OUT AND REST : When the dough is visibly puffed up to nearly twice its original size, you are ready to turn it out and prepare to put it to bed for the “bulk fermentation.” (If you are unsure whether or not it’s ready, press the top of the dough, it should not be too sticky. Then hold the bowl up on its side and let the dough pull away, you should see a web-like structure with lots of air space where it stretches. It should also smell fermented, like beer. Flop the dough out onto a well-floured, clean surface. Let it rest, 15-30 minutes. (The purpose of this step is just to make it easier to shape. If you don’t have time, you can skip it.)

20 MINUTES LATER, SHAPE & BEDTIME : I have to confess, I still don’t know how to properly shape a boule. But they’re turning out good enough. Plus, like I said in the beginning, you’re taking my advice at your own risk.

First, have your bowl/basket ready and lined with a cloth and sprinkled with flour to receive the boule momentarily. Your hands are about to be covered in flour and dough, so get these ready now.

Now, cut the relaxed dough into two even pieces.

Pull each one into a long rectangle, something about 12” by 6” and do a trifold. (So like a letter, basically. The top down, the bottom over that, three layers.)

Now roll it from one skinny side to the other, like a big clumsy cinnamon roll.

Now we want to do one last maneuver to seal up the bottom. The goal is to create a bit of tension that will keep the top of the boule taunt so it has nice oven spring and makes your scoring look pretty. Try to make the two “open” ends, the ugly ends, of the “cinnamon roll” meet by folding it over again. Put that new seam down on the counter surface, and drag the boule against itself to form a seal. It won’t be perfect. Just take a shot or two, then flop it in the basket PRETTY SIDE DOWN, SEAM SIDE UP. And be at peace with yourself.

Cover the bowls/baskets with a cloth or a plastic wrap and set them in the refrigerator. They will “bulk ferment” there overnight and are ready to bake anytime within 8 to 36 hours.

THE NEXT DAY, DECIDE HOW TO BAKE : Go ahead and turn your oven on to 450°F. Now you can go about baking one of two ways depending on which pot you choose (I use the "cold start method described below, but every oven is different, so I encourage you to try both and experiment with times) :

PREHEAT: You could preheat your oven and a heavy, cast iron Dutch oven. When everything is piping hot, bake bread for 30 minutes covered + 15 minutes uncovered.

COLD START: If you have an enamel coated steel pot, simply bake the bread covered for 55 minutes without waiting for a preheat.

PREPARING THE BOULE FOR BAKING : Bring your cold, proofed boule to the counter and turn it out onto a piece of parchment paper (It will now be right side up). Dust with flour, or rice flour if you want to be more authentic, and score. Pick up the whole thing, parchment and all, and set it into your pot of choice and place 3 or 4 ice cubes in the pot with the bread, OUTSIDE of the parchment paper. Cover. Bake.

WARM FRESH BREAD : When the bread is finished baking, turn it out onto the counter or a cooling rack and let it cool before slicing. I know that sounds outrageous. But if you try to slice a hot loaf, it will be like spooning porridge with a feather. It’s just… no. Let it cool at least 20 minutes, and then it’ll be manageable, and it’ll still be warm. Or, you know what, if you plan to eat the whole thing right then and there, just rip into it. I don’t even blame you. Do try to eat it all today, though. It won’t be the same tomorrow, but reheated as toast is almost as good. Plus, there’s still another boule in the fridge!